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Designing for real-world fit

Tolerances, clearances, wall thickness and the dimensions a printer can hold.

A filament printer is not a milling machine. A well-tuned one holds about 0.2 mm either way, so two parts that must fit need a gap designed in:

Clearance per side by kind of fit
FitGap per sideUsed for
Tight or press fit0.1 to 0.15 mmSnap joints, bearing seats
Sliding fit0.2 to 0.3 mmA lid on a box, a drawer in a slot
Loose or clearance fit0.3 to 0.5 mmCables through holes, screw clearance

Expose the clearance as a parameter, so a maker tunes it for their own printer:

PPSCAD
param clearance: float = 0.3 [0.1:0.5:0.05] "Fit clearance (mm)"

The thinnest wall a printer makes well depends on its nozzle:

Wall thickness by nozzle
NozzleThinnest wallRecommended
0.4 mm0.8 mm (two perimeters)1.2 to 1.6 mm
0.6 mm1.2 mm1.8 mm

Give the wall parameter a floor the printer can make:

PPSCAD
param wall: float = 2.0 [1.2:6:0.2] "Wall thickness (mm)"

A printed hole comes out smaller than drawn, because the plastic pulls inward as it cools. Add 0.2 to 0.3 mm to the radius:

Hole diameters for common screws
ScrewNominalHole to draw
M33.0 mm3.4 mm
M44.0 mm4.4 mm
M55.0 mm5.4 mm
#6-323.5 mm3.9 mm

A filament printer bridges overhangs up to about 45 degrees without support. Design with that in mind:

  • Chamfer an edge at 45 degrees instead of leaving a flat overhang.
  • Draw a horizontal hole as a teardrop, so its top does not sag.
  • Put the largest flat face on the bed; it decides the orientation.

A vertical dimension lands on a layer. With 0.2 mm layers, a feature drawn 5.1 mm tall prints as 5.0 or 5.2 mm. Draw heights that matter as multiples of the usual layer heights, 0.1, 0.15 or 0.2 mm.